When we left Nanusa at the end of the Summer School, we thought it would be weeks before we went back again. Our hosts in Karatung, Marampit and Kakorotan had welcomed over 30 students, our team and our young boys as their own. Four weeks of field survey, community meetings and awareness raising, regularly punctuated by beautiful freshly cooked meals and evenings sipping coffee as the lectures gave way to group work. The Nanusa archipelago is a friendly place, almost as far North as you can go in Indonesia, nearer General Santos in the Philippines than Manado, much closer to Manila than Jakarta, but Indonesian seven islands, nine communities with a proud, God-fearing community, well adapted to the rhythm of island life, – farmers of coconut, nutmeg and cloves, chickens and pigs and expert fishers when the waves calm, and the deep ocean is safe to fish on. The way to reach Nanusa Islands is still by boat. Fast sleek steel ferry from Manado, overnight to Melonguane, the capital of District. Not wanting to wait for the next fortnightly ferry YLLI team rented an impossibly small speedboat for the four hours bounce. Northwards off the east coast of Karakelang Island where the capital is, then north east across the rough channel past Kakorotan, Mangapu Islands and into the bay of Karatung. Only some repairs to the jetty and a tall communication tower visible changes in the last 19 years. Old friends Lucki, one of our old team and “Opo” a participant back in the day, walked us down the main street, now paved with cement, tidy houses on each side behind low brightly painted walls, some music playing inside a house, PLN Power now running all day every day, a doctor on each island four things that have changed. Much remains the same. Talking to the Camat or sub-district head, Frans Weil Lu’a, a participant of the Summer School so many years ago, there was much more that had been done, and more needing doing. The weather is getting more extreme we have had our first climate refugees, he explained they’ve had to move from their beach front houses to the back of the village, storms are getting worse, both Karatung and Kakorotan Islands are badly affected. Yes, there are still fish, we have enough to eat, there’s mackerel and tuna we can catch when the weather’s good, but the reef fish are smaller and harder to find. Our coconut trees are suffering, “We’re making less copra, selling nutmeg and cloves keeps us in cash, but each year things are getting harder, – You would be welcomed to come back and help!” Papa, Lucki and Mama, Summer School Alumni at the pool in Marampit Nearly everything is bought to the islands by the fast metal boats that travel overnight from Manado to Melonguane most days of the week